Harry Denton’s Starlight Room – Tim Gaskin

Harry Denton has been the king of San Francisco nightlife for over twenty years. His club, The Starlight Room, sits at the top of the Sir Francis Drake Hotel on Powell Street downtown. It is a glamorous spot to enjoy top-shelf liquors, live music, classic bar food and panoramic views of the city.

Denton says that it was a very popular spot in the fifties, but by the time he took it over nine years ago, “It was completely run down.”

For the makeover Denton had his themes - plush and sophisticated, sexy and intimate. He says, “It’s very personal. I want my guests to feel like they are in my home, like I am entertaining them in my living room.”

Guests step out onto black granite floors surrounded by beautiful beveled mirrors and the soft light of a turn of-the-century chandelier. An antique presentation table with a colossal display of Ecuadorian Roses, four dozen freshly cut long stem roses, eclipses the Biedermeier-style bar, done in black marble, granite and light blonde burl. Hundreds of yards of elegant drapery, complete with fringe and tassels, surrounds the room, framing the famous 300-degree view of San Francisco.

An eclectic crowd of locals and visitors watch the sunset at nightfall and dance to live swing and big-band or to DJ sounds after dark. But it’s Denton himself that is the biggest draw. He is on a first-name basis will most of his customers. And that number is in the thousands. He stresses, “It’s hard cause they all know mine, it’s on the marquee!”

It’s impressive jsut spending time with the impresario working a crowd, he really knows everyone. He admits, “I have a wonderful spectrum of friends from the Gavin and our lovely first lady, to Jose the wonderful hamburger cook at Café Jasime.

A light-fare menu is also available, gourmet, of course. He says, “Its light, but you can actually have a nice dinner here.”

If you come with an appetite you’ll have plenty of choices. A good place to start is with the ceaser salad. It is heavy on the anchovies and is finished with oven toasted sour dough croutons. The highlight entrée is the beef Wellington, a substantial piece of filet mignon wrapped in a puff pastry served with a heavy bordelaise and vegetables. The dessert that gets the most attention is the chocolate decadence cake served in a raspberry puree, crème englaise and is topped with a star namesake made from sugar.

Other highlights of the menu include a caviar service, three different pizzas, crab cakes and wonder giant prawns – Denton ’s favorite healthy dish.

Whether you’re coming in for drinks after work, dancing with friends or having a romantic meal, Denton promises. “You’ll walk out with a smile.” www.harrydenton.com